A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, A TITANIUM SALT, AND A CATIONIC HYDROPHOBIC CEL

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated from one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more dyes, b ) one or more titanium salts and optionally b1) at least one carboxylic acid and c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s), and d) optionally one or more agent (s) (s) chemical oxidizing agent (s) such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s).
公开号:FR3029408A1
申请号:FR1462063
申请日:2014-12-08
公开日:2016-06-10
发明作者:Boris Lalleman；Alain Lagrange；Francoise Albouy
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for the dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said hair dyeing process uses at least one dye, a titanium salt, and a cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide. fibers are processed from one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more dyes, b) one or more titanium salt (s) and b1) optionally one or more particular carboxylic acids c) one or more polysaccharide (s) cationic hydrophobic cellulose (s), d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) ( s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide. It is known to obtain so-called "permanent" dyes with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained can be varied by combining these oxidation bases with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. This oxidation dyeing process consists in applying to the keratinous fibers, bases or a mixture of bases and couplers with hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 or hydrogen peroxide) as an oxidizing agent, to be allowed to diffuse, then to rinse the fibers. The resulting colorations are permanent, strong, and resistant to external agents, including light, weather, washing, perspiration and friction. Nevertheless, it is still desired to increase the effectiveness of the oxidation dyes used during this dyeing process in order to improve their rise on the keratin fibers. In fact, such an improvement would make it possible in particular to reduce the content of the oxidation dyes present in the dyeing compositions, to reduce the exposure time on the keratinous fibers and / or to use other families of dyes having a low dyeing power. but which are able in particular to bring new shades or lead to more stubborn stains vis-à-vis external agents such as light or shampoos, we finally to lead to better quality of use as a less staining scalp, clothing, or even less coloration of the dye mixture (cleaner) during the application or break time Furthermore, it is known to dye keratinous fibers and in particular human hair, with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes. The standard dyes that are used are in particular nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine, triarylmethane or natural dyes.
[0002] These dyes may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric. These dyes are colored molecules or dyes having an affinity for keratinous fibers. These compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to the keratinous fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloration, and then rinsed. The resulting colorings are particularly chromatic colorations which are however temporary or semi-permanent because the nature of the interactions which bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber, and their desorption of the surface and / or the core of the fiber are responsible their low dyeing power and their poor resistance to light, washing, or perspiration.
[0003] There is therefore still some progress to be made in this field to provide powerful, resistant dyes that respect the nature of the hair from compositions containing, in particular, natural dyes. In the field of coloration from natural extract such as orthodiphenols (ODPs), it is also known to dye keratin materials such as hair or skin from ODPs in the presence of a metal salt, especially manganese (Mn) and / or zinc (Zn). In particular, the patent applications FR 2814943, FR 2814945, FR 2814946 and FR 2814947 provide compositions for coloring the skin or keratinous fibers, comprising a dye precursor which contains at least one orthodiphenol, salts and oxides of Mn. and / or Zn, alkali metal hydrogencarbonate in a particular ratio Mn, Zn / hydrogen carbonate and optionally an enzyme. According to these documents, it is possible to obtain dyes of keratin materials with oxygen from the air or any system generating oxygen. However, the colorations obtained from ODPs are insufficiently powerful, intense and / or are not very stubborn, especially in the case of hair fibers. It is known to use acid-level metals for dyeing keratinous fibers in amounts similar to those used for dyes using an etching process, which consists in preparing the fibers before dyeing to obtain stubborn hues (Ullmann's Encyclopedia "Metal and Dyes", 2005 § 35 5.1, p 8). However, this process generally has the disadvantage of not always respecting the cosmetics of the keratin fiber. Other documents describe the use of ODPs associated with salts of Mn, Zn and other metal salts including titanium salts and a chemical oxidizing agent (FR297673, WO2011 / 086284, WO2011 / 086282, and FR2951374).
[0004] However, improvements still need to be made in particular in terms of color tenacity vis-à-vis shampoos and sweat. There is therefore a real need to develop staining processes which make it possible to obtain more powerful and / or stubborn stains from dyes, in particular oxidation dyes, direct dyes of natural origin or otherwise, in particular ODPs, preferably from natural extracts rich in ODPs, less aggressive for keratin fibers, or requiring smaller quantities of dyes. More particularly, there is a need to obtain colorings which are satisfactorily resistant to external agents (light, weather, shampoos, sweat) which are stubborn and homogeneous, ie having low selectivity of staining between the root and the tip , while remaining powerful and / or chromatic. In addition, it is necessary to obtain the satisfactory coloration performance, that the product is stable and has suitable use qualities that is to say a sufficient rheology not to sink during the pause time. For this reason, it is preferable that the staining medium does not interact with the staining process.
[0005] This object (s) is (are) achieved by the present invention which relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated. in one or more steps, by one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more dyes, in particular chosen from the dyestuffs; oxidation and direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin, preferably chosen from ODPs; b) one or more salt (s) of titanium (Ti); in particular the Ti atom of the salt is of oxidation degree 2, 3 or 4 denoted Ti (I 1), Ti (III) or Ti (IV), preferably Ti (IV); b1) optionally one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) below; A formula (I) or a salt thereof wherein -A represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon having 1 to 50 carbon atoms saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or nonaromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably A is a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups; n represents an integer inclusive between 0 and 10, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2; (C) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s); d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s).
[0006] Preferably, the composition (s) used in the process of the invention is (are) aqueous. Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising the ingredients a), b), c) and optionally d) as defined above. Another object of the present invention is a multi-compartment device comprising ingredients a), b), c) and optionally d) distributed in a plurality of compartments. The multi-compartment device or "kit" is suitable for carrying out the coloring process according to the invention. The process according to the invention has the advantage of coloring human keratinous fibers, with results of stubborn staining. In particular, the dyeing method according to the invention makes it possible to lead to colorings resistant to washing, transpiration, sebum and light without altering the fibers. The resistance to perspiration is particularly good. In addition, the coloring process used makes it possible to induce a "rise" and / or power of the satisfactory coloration.
[0007] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and the examples which follow. a) The dye (s) According to the present invention, the dyeing process involves a) one or more dyes. The dye (s) used in the process according to the invention may be oxidation dye precursors and / or direct dyes of synthetic or natural origin.
[0008] The dye (s) of the invention may be present in one or more cosmetic composition (s) used during the dyeing process. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from oxidation dye precursors, more particularly chosen from dye precursors, more particularly chosen from among the bases Oxidation, optionally combined with one or more couplers. The oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Preferably, the oxidation base (s) of the invention are chosen from among 40 paraphenylenediamines and heterocyclic bases.
[0009] Among the paraphenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine and 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine may be mentioned by way of example; 2,5-Dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-13-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, N - ((3-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, - (3-hydroxy) thyl) paraphenylenediamine, N - ((3, y-dihydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-13-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine) , N - ((3-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid.
[0010] Of the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-13-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine and their Particularly preferred are the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, such as N, N'-bis-((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4 '). aminophenyl) 1,3-diamino propanol, N, N'-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- ( 4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylen ediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane and their addition salts.
[0011] Among the para-aminophenols, para-amino phenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol may be mentioned by way of example; 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol 4-amino-2 - ((3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0012] Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-ol. amino phenol, and their addition salts. Among the heterocyclic bases, there can be in particular pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives. Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5 diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3 amino pyridine, 3, 4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5a] -pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 24 (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; 2-13-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 2- (4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl) -3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; as well as their addition salts. More particularly, the oxidation bases according to the invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo- [1,5a] -pyridines preferably substituted in position 2 by: a) a (di) (C1-C6) (alkyl) group amino groups which may be substituted with one or more hydroxy, amino or imidazolium groups; b) a heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 5 to 7 members, and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, cationic or otherwise, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C6) alkyl groups such as di (C1-C4) alkylpiperazinium; c) a (C1-C6) alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups such as (3-hydroxyalkoxy) and their addition salts Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in the DE patents JP 93 169571, JP 05-63124, EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-trinopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric equilibrium. mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methyl pyrazole 4,5-diamino 1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-di amino-1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenyl pyrazole, 4-amino-1,3- dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- tert-butyl 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) -3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5 1-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. Preferably, the heterocyclic oxidation bases of the invention are chosen from 4,5-diaminopyrazoles, such as 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, and 4-5-diamino may also be used. - ((3-methoxyethyl) pyrazole.
[0013] Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or a salt thereof will be used as pyrazole derivatives. mention may also be made of diamino N, Ndihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2- amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-aminopropyl-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro 1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H , 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1 -one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-aminodo-1,2-diethyl-5-yl; (1-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amin-5- (3-di-methylamino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1-yl dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof. As heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2] will preferably be used. -a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.
[0014] The oxidation base (s) used in the context of the invention are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 5%. The additional couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 2,4-diamino-1- (13-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4 (11-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1- dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, thymol, 1-11-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (13-hydroxyethyl) amino-3, 4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis (11-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazole, 5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl pyrazole 5-one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl-1,3,2 -1,2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. In the context of the present invention, the coupler or couplers are generally present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the dye composition. total of the coloring composition. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from among the direct dyes. The direct dye (s) that can be used in the context of the invention may be anionic, cationic or neutral direct dyes, of natural or non-fluorescent origin or not. These direct dyes are in particular chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing all commonly used aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes such as neutral neutral, acidic or cationic nitro benzene dyes, neutral azo direct dyes, acidic or cationic, natural direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic neutral anthraquinone dyes, azine, polyarylmethane direct dyes such as triarylmethanics, indoamines, polymethines such as styryls, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines.
[0015] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from anionic direct dyes or dyes commonly known as "acid" or "acid dyes" direct dyes for their affinity with the dyes. alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or 503R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation derived from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acidic nitro dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azine dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.
[0016] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the dye or dyes are chosen from cationic direct dyes or dyes commonly known as "basic" or "basic dyes" direct dyes for their affinity with acidic substances. The cationic dyes are preferably chosen from hydrazono, (poly) azo dyes, polymethine such as styryl and (poly) arylmethane dyes. More preferentially, the cationic dye (s) of the invention are chosen from the hydrazono dyes of formula (Va) and (V'a), the azo compounds (Via) and (VI'a) and the following diazo compounds (Vila): Het + - C (Ra) = NN (Rb) -Ar, Q-Het + -N (Ra) -N = C (Rb) -Ar, Q-Het + -N = N-Ar, Q- (Va) (V'a) (Via) Ar + -N = N-Ar ", Q- and Het + -N = N-Ar'-N = N-Ar, Q- (VI'a) (Vila) formulas (Va), (V'a) , (Via), (VI'a) and (Vila) with: - Het + representing a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially with one or more groups (CiC8) alkyl, such as methyl, Ar + representing an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge preferably ammonium, especially tri (C 1 -C 8) alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium, Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferentially one or more electron donor groups such as i) (C1-C8) optionally substituted alkyl, ii) (C1-C8) optionally substituted alkoxy, iii) (di) (C1-C8) (alkyl) amino optionally substituted on the or the alkyl groups by a hydroxyl group, iv) optionally substituted aryl (C1-C8) alkylamino, v) N- (C1-C8) alkyl-N-aryl (C1-C8) alkylamino or Ar represents a julolidine group; Ar 'is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero) arylene group such as phenylene, especially para-phenylene, or naphthalene, optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C1-C8) alkyl, hydroxyl or (C1-C8) alkoxy groups; ; - Ar "is an optionally substituted (hetero) aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C1-C8) alkyl, hydroxyl, (di) (C1-C8) (alkyl) amino groups, (C1 -C8) alkoxy or phenyl; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C8) alkyl optionally substituted, preferably with a hydroxyl group, or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het + and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar and / or Ra with Rb together with the atoms bearing them a (hetero) cycloalkyl, especially Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C4) alkyl optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; C2- represents an anionic counterion as defined above.
[0017] According to a preferred variant of the invention, the cationic dyes are chosen from the following polymethine dyes of formula (VIIa) and (VIIIa): VV + 4C (Rc) = C (Rd)], ', - Ar' , Q Ar- [C (Rd) = C (Rc)] ,,, - W '+, (Villa) (Vlll'a) formulas (Villa) or (Vlll'a) with: - W + representing a heterocyclic group or cationic heteroaryl, especially comprising a quaternary ammonium optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C8) alkyl groups optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups; - representing a heterocyclic or heteroaryl as defined for W - Ar representing a (hetero) aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, optionally substituted preferentially by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine; ii) one or more (C1-C8) alkyl, preferably C1-C4, groups such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (C1-C8) alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy (C1-C8) alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl, vi) one or more amino or (di) (C1-C8) alkylamino groups, preferably with the C1-C4 alkyl part optionally substituted with a or more hydroxyl such as (di) hydroxyethylamino, vii) with one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as 5- or 6-membered piperazinyl, piperidinyl or heteroaryl such as pyrrolidinyl, pyridinyl and imidazolinyl; Ar 'is a (hetero) aryl radical as defined for Ar; m 'represents an integer inclusive between 1 and 4, particularly m is 1 or 2; more preferably 1; - Rc, Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C8) alkyl optionally substituted, preferably C1-C4, or Rc adjacent to VV * or Ve and / or Rd contiguous with Ar or Ar 'and / or Rc and Rd contiguous form with the atoms forming with the atoms which carry them a (hetero) cycloalkyl, especially Rc is contiguous with VV * or Ve and forms a (hetero) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl; - C2- as defined above, preferably represents a halide or a mesylate. Mention may more particularly be made of azo and hydrazono endocyclic cationic charge dyes of formula (Va), (V'a), (Via) and (VI'a) as defined above. More particularly those of formula (Va), (V'a) and (Via) from the dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954. Preferably, the cationic dyes comprise an endocyclic cationic charge and of the following formula: ## STR2 ## formulas (Va-1) and (V1a-1) with: R1 representing a grouping (C1) -C4) alkyl such as methyl; - R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C4) alkyl such as methyl; and R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donor group such as optionally substituted (C1-C8) alkyl, (C1-C8) alkoxy optionally substituted, (di) (C1-C8) (alkyl) amino optionally substituted on the or the alkyl groups by a hydroxyl group; in particular, R 4 is a hydrogen atom; Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH 2 -CO 2 as defined above, and preferably represents a halide or a mesylate.
[0018] In particular, the dyes of the invention are chosen from those of formula (IIIa-1) and (IVa-1) is chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives: 3029408 H3c'N C1- ## STR2 ## With Q-as defined above, preferably represents a halide or a mesylate. .
[0019] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from dyes of natural origin or so-called natural dyes. Among the natural dyes that may be mentioned are lawsone, juglone, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols (ODPs) and all extracts rich in ODPs. . It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular the poultices or extracts based on henna and / or indigo. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the dye (s) are chosen from ortho-diphenol (s) or ODP (s). The invention relates to one or more ODP (s) or mixtures of compounds comprising one or more aromatic rings of which at least one is a benzene ring substituted by at least two hydroxy groups (OH) carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of said benzene group being present in the structure of the orthodiphenol (s).
[0020] The aromatic ring is more particularly a fused aryl or fused heteroaromatic ring, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, and the like. indole, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring having at least minus two hydroxy groups carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring. Preferably, the aromatic ring of the ODPs according to the invention is a benzene ring. By "fused ring" is meant that at least two saturated or unsaturated, heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic rings have a common bond, i.e. at least one ring is attached to another ring. The ODP (s) according to the invention may be salified or not. They can also be in the form of aglygone (without bound sugar) or in the form of glycosylated compounds. More particularly, the ODP (s) a) represents (s) a compound of formula (II), or one of its oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometric isomers, as well as its salts or solvates such as the hydrates: OH (II) in which: R1 to R4, identical or different, represent: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) halogen, or a group selected from iii) hydroxy, iv) carboxy, carboxylate of (C 1 -C 20) alkyl or (C 1 -C 20) alkoxycarbonyl, vi) optionally substituted amino, vii) C 20) optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl, viii) (C 2 -C 20) linear or branched alkenyl optionally substituted, ix) cycloalkyl optionally substituted, x) C2o) alkoxy, xi) (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl, xii) (C1-C20) alkoxyaryl, xiii) aryl which may be optionally substituted, xiv) aryl, xv) substituted aryl, xvi) heterocyclic, saturated or unsaturated, whether or not carrying a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or possibly preferably condensed with an aromatic ring preferably benzene, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted especially by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, xvii) a radical containing one or more silicon atoms; or two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 together with the carbon atoms carrying them a saturated or unsaturated aromatic or non aromatic ring optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. In particular, the compound of formula (II) comprises from one to four rings. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to one or more ODP (s) of formula (II) in which two adjacent substituents R1-R2, R2-R3 or R3-R4 can not form with the carbon atoms bearing them a pyrrolyl radical. According to a variant, R2 and R3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls. Within the meaning of the present invention, and unless a different indication is given: the saturated or unsaturated rings, optionally condensed, may also be optionally substituted; the radicals "alkyl" are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated, linear or branched, generally in Cl-C20, particularly in 01-010, preferably C1-C6 alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl; the "alkenyl" radicals are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, unsaturated C 2 -C 20; preferably comprising at least one double bond such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, methyl-2-propylene and decylene; The "aryl" radicals are mono- or polycyclic carbon radicals, condensed or not, preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferentially chosen from the aryl radical is phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, and tetrahydronaphthyl; the "alkoxy" radicals are alkyl-oxy radicals with alkyl as defined above, preferably at 01-010, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy; the "alkoxyalkyl" radicals are (C 1 -C 20) alkoxy (C 1 -C 20) alkyl radicals, such as methoxymethyl, ethoxymethyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, etc .; the "cycloalkyl" radicals are C 4 -C 8 cycloalkyl radicals, preferably the cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals; the cycloalkyl radicals may be substituted cycloalkyl radicals, in particular with alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxy, amine and ketone groups; the "alkyl" or "alkenyl" radicals, when they are "optionally substituted", may be substituted with at least one atom or group borne by at least one carbon atom chosen from: i) halogen; ii) hydroxy; iii) (C1-C2) alkoxy; iv) (C1-C10) alkoxycarbonyl; v) (poly) hydroxy (C2-C4) alkoxy; vi) amino; vii) 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl; viii) optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (ClC4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; ix) amino substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a) a hydroxyl group, b) an amino group optionally substituted with one or two radicals (C 1 -C 3) optionally substituted alkyl, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom which may or may not be different from nitrogen; c) a quaternary ammonium group -N + R'R "R" ', M- for which R', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; represents the counter-ion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, d) or an optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl radical, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl radical, 3029408 15 prefer methyl (x) acylamino (-N (R) -C (O) -R ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; and the radical R 'is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; a carbamoyl radical ((R) 2 N-C (O) -) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group ; xi) alkylsulphonylamino (R'-S (O) 2 -N (R) -) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulphonyl ((R) 2N-S (O) 2-) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one group selected from a) hydroxy, b) carboxy-O (O) -OH in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); xiii) cyano; xiv) nitro; xv) carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl; xvi) phenylcarbonyloxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups; Xvii) glycosyloxy; and phenyl optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups; the "aryl" or "heterocyclic" radicals or the aryl or heterocyclic radical radicals when they are "optionally substituted" may be substituted by at least one atom or group borne by at least one carbon atom chosen from: 01-C10) alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 8, optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from hydroxyl, (C 1 -C 2) alkoxy, (C 2 -C 4) polyoxyhydroxyoxy, acylamino, amino substituted by two radicals alkyl, identical or different, C1-C4, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or, the two radicals may form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising 5 to 7 members, of preferably 5 or 6-membered, optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; ii) halogen; iii) hydroxy; iv) C1-02 alkoxy; v) C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl; vi) (poly) hydroxyalkoxy C2-04; vii) amino; viii) 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl; ix) optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; x) amino substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a) a hydroxy, b) amino group optionally substituted by one or two optionally substituted C 1 -C 3 alkyl radicals, said alkyl radicals being capable of forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally comprising at least one other non-nitrogen heteroatom or another, c) a quaternary ammonium group - N + R'R "R" ', M- for which R', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and M- represents the counter-group; ion of the organic acid 40, mineral or of the corresponding halide, d) a heteroaryl radical 5 or 3029408 16 6-membered optionally cationic, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a radical (C1-04) alkyl, preferentially thyl; xi) acylamino (-N (R) -C (O) -R ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the R 'is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; xii) carbamoyl ((R) 2 N-C (O) -) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; xiii) alkylsulphonylamino (R'S (O) 2 -N (R) -) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R ' represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xiv) aminosulphonyl ((R) 2N-S (O) 2-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, xv) carboxy in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); (xvi) cyano; 15 xvii) nitro; xviii) polyhaloalkyl, preferentially trifluoromethyl; xix) glycosylcarbonyl; xx) a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; xxi) a glycosyloxy group; and xxii) phenyl optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups; - By "glycosyl" radical is meant in the sense of the present invention a radical derived from a mono or polysaccharide; the radicals "containing one or more silicon atoms" are preferably poly-dimethylsiloxane, poly-diphenylsiloxane, poly-dimethylphenylsiloxane or stearoxydimethicone radicals; the "heterocyclic" radicals are radicals comprising in at least one ring one or more heteroatoms particularly chosen from O, N and S, preferably O or N, optionally substituted with, in particular, one or more alkyl, alkoxy, carboxy or hydroxy groups; , amine or ketone. These rings may contain one or more oxo groups on the carbon atoms of the heterocycle; among the heterocyclic radicals which may be used, mention may be made especially of furyl, pyranyl, pyrrolyl, imidazolyl, pyrazolyl, pyridyl and thienyl groups; still more preferably, the heterocyclic groups are fused groups such as benzofuranyl, chromenyl, xanthenyl, indolyl, isoindolyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, chromannyl, isochromannyl, indolinyl, isoindolinyl, coumarinyl, isocoumarinyl, these groups may be substituted, in particular by one or more OH groups.
[0021] The ODP (s) useful in the process of the invention can be natural or synthetic. Natural ODPs include compounds that may be present in nature and are reproduced by (hemi) chemical synthesis. The salts of the ODPs of the invention may be salts of acids or bases. The 40 acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid which leads to the chlorides. By "basifying agents" is meant the bases as defined for e) may be mineral or organic. Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide which leads to sodium salts.
[0022] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises as ingredient a) one or more synthetic ODP (s) which do not exist in nature. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition that is useful in the process for staining keratinous fibers comprises as ingredient a) one or more natural ODP (s). More particularly, the ODP (s) usable in the process of the invention according to a) (is) are in particular: flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate, flavonols such as quercetin Anthocyanidins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, petunidine, anthocyanins or anthocyanins such as myrtillin, orthohydroxybenzoates, for example salts of gallic acid, flavones such as luteolin, hydroxystilbenes, 3,3-tetrahydroxy-3,3 ', 4,5'-stilbene, optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives; , 5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - dihydroxycinnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, 25 - orthopolyhydroxycoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarones, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones, - orthopolyhydro xychalcones, orthopolyhydroxychromones, quinones, hydroxyxanthones, 1,2-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives, proanthocyanidins and in particular proanthocyanidins A1, A2, B1, B2, B3 and C1, chromium and chromene compounds, proathocyanins, tannic acid, ellagic acid; and the mixtures of the preceding compounds. According to the invention, "chromenic or chromanic" ODP compounds are understood to mean ODPs which comprise in their structure at least one bicycle of formula (A) below: (A) the intracyclic bond representing a single carbon-carbon bond or else A carbon-carbon double bond, as illustrated by the formula (A1) denoting the family of chromenes and the formula (A2) denoting the family of chromanes below: (A1) (A2) More particularly, the ODPs of the invention are of formula (A) and preferably chosen from the dyes of the following formulas: - formula (III), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula (A2), R4 OH and its tautomeric and / or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with a cosmetically acceptable acid or base, and its hydrates; Formula (III) in which: - - represents a single carbon-carbon bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, the bonding of these bonds denotes two single carbon-carbon bonds and two carbon-carbon double bonds, said R2 HO X With the bonds being conjugated, X represents a group: HO-C or O = C-R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group; optionally substituted alkyl, optionally substituted alkoxy, or optionally substituted acyloxy; and - formula (IV), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula (A1): OR12 OR13 R14 OR16 R18 (IV) as well as its tautomeric and / or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with an acid or a cosmetically acceptable base, and its hydrates; Formula (IV) in which: - R11, R12, R13, R16, R19 and R20, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and - R14, R15, R17 and R18, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical. With regard to the orthodiphenols of formula (III) as defined above, these can be found in two tautomeric forms noted (IIIa) and (IIIb): ## STR1 ## The alkyl radicals mentioned in FIG. the preceding definitions of the substituents are saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals, generally C 1 -C 20, especially C 1 -C 10, preferably C 1 -C 6, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl.
[0023] The alkoxy radicals are alkyl-oxy radicals with the alkyl radicals as defined above, and preferably the alkoxy radicals are Ci-Cio, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy. The alkyl or alkoxy radicals, when substituted, may be substituted with at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom selected from i) a halogen atom; or a group ii) hydroxy, iii) C1-2alkoxy, iv) C1-10 alkoxycarbonyl, C2-4 (poly) hydroxyalkoxy, vi) amino, vii) 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl, viii) 5-membered heteroaryl; or optionally 6-membered cationic, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; ix) an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a) a hydroxyl group, b) an amino group optionally substituted with one or two C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals; C3 optionally substituted, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or different from nitrogen; (c) a quaternary ammonium group - N + R'R "R" ', M- for which R', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; represents the counter-ion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, d) or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C 1 -C 4) alk radical; yl, preferably methyl, x) an acylamino radical (-NR-COR ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; xi) a carbamoyl radical ((R) 2 N-CO-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; xii) an alkylsulphonylamino radical (R'SO 2 -NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents a radical; C1-C4 alkyl, a phenyl radical; xiii) an aminosulphonyl radical ((R) 2 N -SO 2 -) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; (xiv) a carboxylic radical in acid or salt form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); xv) a cyano group; (xvi) a nitro group; xvi) a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group; xvii) a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; xviii) a glycosyloxy group; and xix) a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. By glycosyl radical is meant a radical derived from a mono or polysaccharide. Preferably, the alkyl or alkoxy radicals of formula (III) are unsubstituted.
[0024] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyes of formula (III) comprise an R 6 radical representing a hydroxyl group. Another particular embodiment of the invention relates to the ODPs of formula (III), for which the radical R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group. More particularly, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more ODP (s) of formula (III) chosen from hematoxylin, haematein, brazilin and braziline. HO HO HO Hemeinine Braziléine HO HO OH HO Hematoxylin (Natural Black 1 - Braziline (Natural Red 24 - CAS 517-28-2) CAS 474-07-7) BRAZILINE is a conjugated form of a chroman compound of formula ( A2). The diagram below shows the tautomeric structures (111a) and (111b) illustrated above.
[0025] Among the ODPs of the hematoxylin / haematin and brazilin / braziline type, there may be mentioned, by way of example, hematoxylin (Natural Black 1 according to the INCI name) and braziline (Natural Red 24 according to the denomination). INCI), dyes of the family of 3029408 22 indochromanes, which are commercially available. These may exist in an oxidized form and be obtained by synthesis or by extraction of plants or plants known to be rich in these dyes. The ODPs of formula (III) can be used in the form of extracts. The following plant extracts (genus and species) may be used: Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinosa, and Caesalpina Brasiliensis. The extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants, such as, for example, the root, the wood, the bark or the leaf.
[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the ODP or ODPs are of formula (I) natural and are derived from logwood wood, pernambuc wood, sappan wood and brazil wood. According to a particular embodiment of the invention the ODPs are of formula (IV), preferably those for which R11 and R13 represent an alkyl radical, preferably methyl. Preferably, R12, R16, R19 and R20 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, preferably methyl. Preferably, R14 and R17 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or an alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy.
[0027] Preferably, R 18 and R 15 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy. A particularly preferred first family of ODPs suitable for the present invention is that of the dyes of formula (II) above for which R12, R15, R16, R17, R19 and R20 each represent a hydrogen atom. R11 and R13 are each methyl and R14 is methoxy. Among the preferred ODPs of this first family include those, for which R18 represents a methoxy (santaline B) or hydroxy (santaline A) radical. A second particularly preferred family of ODPs suitable for the present invention is that of the dyes of formula (IV) above wherein R 11 and R 13 are each methyl, R 17 is methoxy. A preferred dye of this second family is that for which, in addition, R19 represents a methyl radical, R20, R12, R14, R18 and R16 each represent a hydrogen atom, and R15 represents the hydroxyl radical (santarubine A).
[0028] A second preferred dye of this second family is that for which R18, R20, R12, R14 and R16 represent a hydrogen atom, R15 represents a methoxy radical and R19 represents a methyl radical (Santarubine B). A third family of preferred ODPs of this second family is that for which R 20, R 12, R 14, R 15, R 16 and R 19 represent hydrogen and R 18 represents the hydroxyl radical (santarubine C).
[0029] The preferred ODP or ODPs of this second family is that for which R15 represents a methoxy radical, and R18 and R14 represent a hydrogen atom and R20, R12, R16 and R19 represent a methyl radical (tetra-O-methylcantarubine). . The ODP or ODPs of formula (IV) may be used in the form of extracts. Redwood plant extracts can be used, generally comprising Asian and West African wood species of the genus Pterocarpus and the genus Baphia. These woods are, for example, Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida. These woods can still be called padauk, sandalwood (sandalwood), narrawood, camwood or barwood. Thus, usable extracts containing ODPs of formula (II) in the present invention may for example be obtained from red sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus), by aqueous basic extraction, such as the product sold under the trade name Sandalwood Concentrate. SL 709C by the company COPIAA or 15 by means of a solvent extraction of sandalwood powder such as the product sold under the trade name Sandalwood Powder SL PP by the same company COPIAA. We can also mention the hydroalcoholic extract of Sandalwood powder red ALBAN MULLER company. Extracts also suitable for the present invention can be obtained from woods such as Camwood (Baphia nitida) or Barwood (Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus): the latter is thus fractionated and then ground: a conventional alcohol extraction or by percolation is then carried out on this ground to obtain a powdery extract particularly suitable for the implementation of the present invention.
[0030] The ODP salts of formulas (III) and (IV) of the invention may be cosmetically acceptable acid or base salts. The acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid leading to the chlorides. The bases can be mineral or organic. Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide leading to sodium salts. Preferably, the ODP or ODPs of formula (III) and (IV) included in the composition according to the invention are derived from plant extracts. It is also possible to use mixtures of plant extracts. The natural extracts of ODPs according to the invention may be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts are in powder form. In particular, the ODPs of the invention are comprised of catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic, caffeic, gallic acids, catechol, gallic acid, L DOPA, pelargonidine, cyanidine, (-) -Epicatechin, (-) - Epigallocatechin, (-) - Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), (+) - Catechin, 40 Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3- (3-hydroxy-2,4-hydroxy) - 3029408 24 dimethoxyphenyl) coumarin. Santalin AC, Mangiferine, Butein, Maritimetine, Sulfuretine, Robtein, Betanidine, Pericampylinone A, Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, ProanthocyanidinCl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic Acid, Purpurogalline, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl 1,4-Naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone, Variegatic Acid, Gomphidic Acid, Xerocomic Acid, Carnosol, and natural extracts containing them. Preferably, the ODPs of the invention are chromenic or chromanic and are chosen from haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiline, santaline A. By "carboxylate" is meant carboxylic acid salt.
[0031] When the dye precursors have D and L forms, both forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention as well as the racemates. According to one embodiment the natural ODPs are derived from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants and fruits used in their entirety or partially. In particular, with regard to the plants, the extracts are made from fruits including citrus fruits, vegetables, trees and shrubs. It is also possible to use mixtures of these extracts, rich in ODPs as defined above. Preferably, the natural ODP or ODPs of the invention are derived from extracts of plants or parts of plants. Within the meaning of the invention, these extracts will be assimilated as compounds a).
[0032] The extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants such as for example root, wood, bark, leaf, flower, fruit, seed, pod, peel. Among the plant extracts, there may be mentioned the extracts of tea leaves, rose. Among the fruit extracts, there may be mentioned extracts of apple, grape (in particular grape seed), or extracts of beans and / or cocoa pods. Among the vegetable extracts, there may be mentioned potato extracts, onion peels. Among the extracts of wood of trees, one can quote the extracts of bark of pine, extracts of logwood.
[0033] Mixtures of plant extracts can also be used. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are natural extracts rich in ODPs. According to a preferred embodiment, the dye (s) of the invention are only natural extracts.
[0034] Preferentially, the dye (s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from catechin, quercetin, haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid. and natural extracts containing them selected from grape pomace, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean, logwood, red wood and walnut.
[0035] More preferably, the ODP (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from: - haematein, brazileine, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the method of staining does not use chemical oxidizing agent; or else - hematoxylin, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the coloring process uses a chemical oxidizing agent The natural extracts according to the invention may be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts of the invention are in the form of powders.
[0036] According to the invention, the synthetic dye (s), natural (s), and / or the natural extract (s) used as ingredient (a) in one or more composition (s) cosmetic (s) useful (s) in the process according to the invention is (are) preferably from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them .. As for the Pure dyes, especially pure ODPs, the content in the compositions containing them is preferably between 0.001 and 5% by weight of each of the compositions containing them. With regard to the extracts, the content in the composition or compositions containing the extracts as such is preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight of each of these compositions, and better still between 0.5 and 10% by weight of the compositions containing them. b) Titanium salt (s): The titanium salt (s) of the invention may be one or more organic or inorganic titanium salt (s).
[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic titanium salt" is intended to mean the salts themselves resulting from the action of at least one organic acid on Ti. By "organic acid" is meant an acid ie a compound capable of releasing a cation or proton H +, or H30 + in aqueous media, which comprises at least one C1-C20 hydrocarbon chain, optionally unsaturated, linear or branched, a group ( hetero) cycloalkyl, or (hetero) aryl and at least one acidic chemical function being in particular chosen from carboxy COOH, sulfuric SO3H, 502H, and phosphoric PO31-12, PO4H2. In particular, the organic acid (s) is (are) to form the organic titanium salt (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from carboxylic acids (s) of formula (I) as defined above and preferably is or are an alpha-hydroxy acid such as lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids. Preferentially, the organic titanium salt resulting from the action of one or more organic acid (s) as defined previously, preferably carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above, is an optionally charged complex (in particular negatively) which is complexed with one or more carboxylic acid carboxylate group (s).
[0038] Preferably, the titanium organic salt (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from those of the following formula (IA): ## STR2 ## Formula (IA) in which: 5 - A is identical to that of the formula (I) - n, n 'and n "identical or different are 1,2,3 or 4 with n' + n" equal to 6; M1 and M2, which may be identical or different, represent a cationic counterion, chosen in particular from alkali metal cations such as Na, or K, alkaline-earth metal such as Ca or organic such as ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a carbon atom. hydrogen; - designating Ti (01-1), r, or Ti (0), r / 2, or Ti (01-1) ,, i (0) ,, 2 with m1 + m2 = n ", preferably the radical A of the compound (IA) as defined above represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and n represents an integer inclusive between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2, especially the carboxylic acid (s) used to form the organic titanium salt (s) of the invention are chosen from α-hydroxy acids, and preferably the acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, lactic acid and the like; tartaric acid, and glycolic acid, more preferably from lactic and glycolic acid, the at least one organic titanium salt (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from those of formula (IB): Formula (IB) wherein: - L 'and L ", which are identical or different, represent a divalent (hetero) arylene, C6) alkylene group, (C) 2-C6) alkenylene, said alkylene and arylene groups being optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups selected from M + ive 2- (IB) Ra Y ON / O Ti X "XY '3029408 halo, (C1-C4) alkyl, hydroxy, thiol, and (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) amino, carboxy, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably L 'and L "are identical and represent a methylene or ethylene group optionally substituted by a (C1-C4) alkyl group, 5 - X' and X", which may be identical or different, represent a heteroatom such as oxygen, sulfur or amino Rc-N with Rc representing a hydrogen atom or a (CiC4) alkyl group, preferably X 'and X "are identical and represent an oxygen atom; Y and Y', which are identical or different, are as defined for X 'and X ", preferably Y and Y' are the same and represent an oxygen atom; Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl, (C 2 -C 6) alkenyl or (hetero) aryl group; particularly Ra and Rb, identical represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably hydrogen; M +, identical or different, represents a cationic counter ion such as alkali (Na, K), alkaline earth (Ca) or organic metal cation such as ammonium, preferably ammonium. Preferably, the titanium organic salt (s) of the coloring process is the dihydroxybis (lactato) titaniumlV salt such as those of the following formula: ## STR5 ## staining process may implement one or more organic acids b1) of formula (I) as defined above. According to an advantageous variant, the dyeing method also uses b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above. More preferentially, the carboxylic acid or acids b1) are different from the carboxylic acids complexed with the Ti salts. For example, if the carboxylic acid complexed with the titanium salt b) is lactic acid or its carboxylate salt (lactate), the second acid b1) is different from lactic acid or lactate, and can be for example glycolic acid. .
[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "inorganic titanium salt" means the salts themselves, derived from the action of an inorganic acid on Ti. By "inorganic acid" is meant an acid which contains no carbon atoms except carbonic acid. The inorganic titanium salts are preferably selected from titanium halides, titanium sulfates and titanium phosphates. The titanium salts are preferably inorganic salts of Ti (II), Ti (III) or Ti (IV), more particularly Ti (III) or Ti (IV).
[0040] Preferably, the titanium salt (s) is (are) organic titanium salts, and more preferably organic Ti (IV) salts. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the organic salt of Ti consists of a Ti (IV) atom and from 2 to 35 molar equivalents of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I). The salt (s) of Titanium (b) is (are) present in the cosmetic composition (s) used in the process according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001%. at 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (s) containing them. In particular, the organic titanium salt (s) and the inorganic titanium salts according to the invention are soluble in water in a proportion of at least 0.0001 g / l, more preferably at least 1 g / l. C) the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) According to the present invention, the dyeing process uses c) one or more cellulosic polysaccharide (s) ie a or a plurality of cellulosic polysaccharide polymer (s), which is preferably a thickener (s).
[0041] The at least one cellulosic polysaccharide (s) according to the invention is (are) furthermore hydrophobic and cationic, ie it (s) comprises (s) at least one C8-C100 hydrocaboned fatty chain, preferentially C10 chain. -050, which can be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as the oxygen atom, and comprises (s) at least one cationic charge preferably of ammonium type. These latter may come from polymers of natural or synthetic origins, which have been chemically modified. More particularly, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) according to the invention comprises (inclusive) from 4,000 to 10,000 anhydroglucose units, said anhydroglucose units being substituted with at least: i) a substituent of formula [R 1 R 2 R 3 N + -R 8 -] (Q), in which: R 1, R 2, R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6) alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl ; - R8 represents a divalent group allowing attachment to the anhydroglucose group chosen from - (A) -ALK-, -ALK- (A) - and -ALK- and in particular R8 is chosen from - (A) -CH2-CH (OH) ) -CH2-, -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2- (A) p- and -CH2CH2-; - ALK represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; p is 0 or 1; A represents a divalent group chosen from - (ALK'-O), - and - (O-ALK), - preferably chosen from - (CH 2 CH 2 O) '- and - (OCH 2 CH 2) n -; 40 - ALK 'represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably ethylene or propylene; an integer ranging from 1 to 100, particularly from 2 to 50; - Cà 'represents anionic counterion; and at least 5 (ii) an ammonium group of formula [R4R6R6N + -R6 -] (Q), wherein: - R4 and R5, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl, R6 represents a linear or branched C8-C24, in particular C10-C24, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C12-C15, or aralkyl, of which the linear or branched alkyl part, is C8-C24; - R9 represents a divalent group allowing attachment to the anhydroglucose group chosen from - (B) q-ALK-, -ALK- (B) q- and -ALK- and in particular R8 is chosen from - (B) q-CH2- CH (OH) -CH2-, CH2-CH (OH) -CH2- (B) q- and -CH2CH2-, with ALK as previously defined 15 - q is 0 or 1; B denotes a divalent group - (CH 2 CH 2 O); an integer ranging from 1 to 100, particularly from 2 to 50; CI represents anionic counterion Preferably, the substituent (ii) of the formula [R 4 R 6 R 6 N + -R 9 -] (Q ") is present in an average of 0.0003 to 0.08 mole, per mole of unit anhydroglucose. The cationic hydrophobic cellulose (s) polysaccharide (s) that may be used in the dyeing process, the composition or the device according to the invention is (are), preferably, modified quaternized celluloses. by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, especially quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) that may be used in the dyeing process, the composition or the device according to the invention comprises, 4500 or more preferably, 5000 or more, and more preferably 6000 or more anhydroglucose units. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) comprise at most 9000, and preferably comprise up to 8000 anhydroglucose units. Preferably, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) of the invention is (are) such that it (s) contains (s) between 4500 and 9000 inclusive. Advantageously, between 5,000 and 8,000 units, and more preferably between 6,000 and 8,000 anhydroglucose units. These cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharides and their preparation process are described in application WO 2005/000903. According to a preferred variant, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) which may be used in the dyeing process, the composition or the device according to the invention is (are) constituted ( s) at least one unit (XII) and at least one of the following units (IX), (X) or (XI): ## STR2 ## Embedded image wherein R1, R2, R3, R4 and R5 are as defined in formula (IX) to (XII) wherein R1, R2, R3, R4 and R5 , identical or different, represent a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6) alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl; R 6 represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 24 alkyl group, in particular OH R + 1 + 0- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 CH 2 CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O), N + R 5 C 30 -C 40 C 31 -C 24 preferably C 12 -C 24, more preferably C 12 -C 15, or aralkyl, the part of which is alkyl, linear or branched, is C8-C24; - Q- and An-, identical or different, represent an anionic counterion, preferably selected from halides such as chloride or bromide, nitrates, sulfates and alkylsulfates such as mesylates, and phosphates; it being understood that: the total number of units (IX) + (X) + (XI) + (XII) is included between 4000 and 10000 inclusive, preferably between 4500 and 9000 units, advantageously between 5000 and 8000 inclusive, and more preferably between 6000 and 8000; The ratio [(XI) + (XII)] / [(IX) + (X) + (XI) + (XII)] is from 0.0003 to 0.8; the ratio [(X) + (XII)] / [(IX) + (X) + (XI) + (XII)] is from 0.02 to 0.9; and the integers n and n ', independently of one another, range from 0 to 5. According to one particular variant, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) can be used. (s) in the dyeing process, the composition or the device according to the invention is (are), is (are) constituted (s) of at least one unit (XII) as defined previously and at least one of the units (IX), (X) or (XI) as defined previously in the one or more R6 is a linear dodecyl group. Among the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) which may be used in the dyeing process, the composition or the device according to the invention may be mentioned polymers of the SOFTCAT SL-type type. 5, SL-30, SL-60 and SL-100 (INCI: Polyquaternium-67) marketed by Amerchol. Particularly preferred cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharides are SL-60 and SL-100 polymers. Preferably, the cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharides of the invention are chosen from quaternized C8-C30 fatty-chain alkylhydroxyethylcellulose such as quaternized laurylhydroxyethylcelluloses and more particularly the polymethyl quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with a substituted epoxide of trimethylammonium and substituted dimethylammonium epoxide also called "CATIONIC LAURYL MODIFIED CELLULOSE ETHER or Polyquaternium-67".
[0042] The concentration of cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 20% by weight. and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them used according to the invention. D) the chemical oxidizing agent (s) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing method also uses one or more chemical oxidizing agents (s) ( s). By chemical oxidizing agent is meant an oxidizing agent different from the oxygen of the air. More particularly, the dyeing process uses i) hydrogen peroxide ii) urea peroxide; iii) polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide such as polyvinylpyrrolidone / H 2 O 2, in particular being in the form of powders and the other polymeric complexes described in US 5,008,093; US 3,376,110; US 5,183,901; iv) oxidases in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase); v) metal peroxides generating hydrogen peroxide in water such as calcium peroxide, magnesium peroxide; vi) perborates; and / or vii) percarborates.
[0043] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen from i) urea peroxide, ii) polymeric complexes which can release hydrogen peroxide selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone / H 2 O 2; iii) oxidases; iv) perborates and y) percarborates. In particular, the dyeing process uses hydrogen peroxide.
[0044] Furthermore, the composition or compositions comprising hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating system may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing keratinous fibers as defined below. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) used preferably represent from 0.001% to 12% by weight of chemical oxidizing agents (of hydrogen peroxide) relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them or, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2.7% by weight. e) the alkalinizing agent (s) According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing method uses one or more alkalinizing agent (s) e). This is base (s) to increase the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is located. The basifying agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic.
[0045] Particularly the said agent is chosen from i) (bi) carbonates, ii) ammonia, iii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iv) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, v) inorganic or organic hydroxides, vi) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, vii) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, and viii) compounds of the following formula (XIII): Formula (XIII) wherein W is a divalent (C1-C8) alkylene radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxy group or at least one (C1-C4) alkyl radical and / or optionally interrupted by at least one heterotatome such as oxygen, sulfur or with a group -N (Re) -; Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl or hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably W represents a propylene radical. The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably selected from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as hydroxides of sodium or potassium, c) the hydroxides of a metal such as the hydroxides of Group III, IV, V and VI metals, d) the hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide. The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. (I) is understood to mean: C032 ") or phosphonium ((R" 4P +) 2, C032- with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R ", which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group ( C1-C8) optionally substituted alkyl such as hydroxyethyl), and b) bicarbonates, also known as hydrogenocarbonates, of the following formulas: R '+, HCO3 with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an ammonium group R "4N + - or phosphonium R" 4P + - where R ", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl and when R 'represents a hydrogen atom the hydrogencarbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (CO2, H2O); and> Met2 + (HCO3) 2 with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal. More particularly, the basifying agent is chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi) carbonates and amino acids such as arginine; preferentially the alkali metal (bi) carbonates and the amino acids. There may be mentioned carbonates or hydrogenocarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and mixtures thereof, and in particular Na hydrogen carbonate. These hydrogencarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water (see patent, for example FR 2 814 943).
[0046] Particularly mention may be made of sodium carbonate [497-19-8] = Na2CO3, sodium hydrogencarbonate or sodium bicarbonate [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and sodium dihydrogen carbonate = Na (HCO3) 2. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the alkalinizing agent (s) (e) is (are) chosen from amino acids such as arginine and the particularly alkaline or alkaline carbonates (bi) carbonates. earthy, alone or in mixtures. They are preferably together during the coloring process. The alkalinizing agent (s) as defined above preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (s) containing them. More particularly from 0.005% to 8% by weight of the composition. Water: According to one embodiment of the invention, water is preferably included in the process of the invention. It may come from the wetting of the keratinous fibers and / or the composition or compositions comprising the compounds a) to e) as defined above or from one or more other compositions. Preferably, the water comes from at least one composition comprising at least one compound chosen from a) to e) as defined above.
[0047] Compositions: The compositions according to the invention generally comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
[0048] By organic solvent is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it. Organic solvents: As an organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, lower alkanols in O1-C4, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. Preferably, the dye composition comprising the dye (s), in particular the ODPs, of the invention comprises at least one organic solvent as defined above and particularly an organic solvent chosen from aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol. The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately. Adjuvants: The composition (s) of the coloring process according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants and the like. ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or their mixtures other than cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharides c) as defined above, inorganic or organic thickeners other than hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharides cationic c) as defined above, and in particular the anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents.
[0049] The dyeing process of the invention may also carry out in addition to compounds a), b), c) and optionally d) at least one other particular carboxylic acid of formula (1) as defined above. More particularly, the carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) are such that A represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and n represents an integer. inclusive between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2. More particularly, the carboxylic acid (s) of the invention are chosen from the acids of formula (I) having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 1% by weight. at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0050] Preferably the acids of formula (I) comprise at least one hydroxy group in their structure. Even more preferentially, the acid is chosen from ohydroxy acids. The preferred acids of the invention are selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and citric acid. The salts of the acids of formula (I) may be organic or inorganic base salts such as sodium hydroxide, ammonia, or potassium hydroxide or organic amine salts such as alkanolamines. The acids of formula (I) or their salts are present in the composition or compositions containing them in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight. Said adjuvants are preferably selected from surfactants such as anionic, nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof and inorganic or organic thickeners. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0051] Of course, those skilled in the art will be careful to select this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or compositions useful in the coloring process according to the present invention. are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions contemplated.
[0052] The cosmetic composition (s) of the invention may be in various galenic forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for carrying out a dyeing of keratinous fibers. They can also be packaged in a pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam. pH of the composition (s): According to a preferred embodiment of the invention the pH of at least one of the cosmetic compositions comprising at least one of the ingredients a), b), c), d) is acid, ie less than 7.0, preferably less than 5.0, especially at a pH between 0 and 4 inclusive, more preferably between 0.5 and 3.5, preferably between 1 and 3.5. According to one embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition (s) containing one or more alkaline agents preferably chosen from (bi) carbonates is alkaline, ie greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12, and more particularly inclusive between 8 and 10.5. When the process according to the invention uses one or more ODP dyes, the composition containing the ODP (s) a) preferably has an acidic pH of less than 7, preferably less than 5, especially at a pH of between 0 and 0, and 4, better still between 1 and 3. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition containing the titanium salt (s) b) and not containing (bi) carbonates has a pH of less than 7, and preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH of between 0 and 4, more preferably between 0.5 and 3.5, preferably between 1 and 3.5. The pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents as defined previously in e) or from acidifying agents normally used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. . Acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. By "carboxylic acid" is meant a compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group -C (O) -OH, preferably of formula (I) as defined above, preferably comprising between 1 and 4 carboxylic acid groups such as only 1 or 2; or selected from: i) (C 1 -C 10) alkyl- [C (O) -OHL and ii) het- [C (O) -OH], where n is an integer inclusive of 1 to 4, preferably 1 and 2, hetero-hetero ring, such as pyrrolidone, wherein the alkyl or hetero group may be optionally substituted with one or more groups, especially selected from OH, and (di) (C 1 -C 6) (alkypamino). The process for dyeing keratinous fibers comprises treating, in one or more steps, one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more dyes; (s) as previously defined, preferably ODP (s) as (s) previously defined; B) one or more titanium salt (s); optionally b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above; c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) as defined previously; d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s); preferably the composition or at least one of the compositions used in the dyeing process is at acidic pH, ie less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH of between 0 and 4, more particularly between 0 and 4; , 5 and 3.5. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring process is characterized in that the titanium salt (s) is (are) chosen from organic or inorganic titanium salts, preferably from salts. organic titanium, and in which (s) titanium is in particular of oxidation state 2, 3 or 4, preferably of oxidation degree 4. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the staining process is carried out in at least two steps which comprises a first step in which the keratinous fibers are treated with a cosmetic composition comprising a) one or more dyes, preferably one or more ODP (s) such (s) ) as defined above, b) one or more titanium salt (s) and optionally b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) as defined above and c) one or more polysaccharide (s) ( s) cationic hydrophobic cellulosic (s) as defined p recently; followed by a second step in which is applied an alkaline cosmetic composition ie whose pH is greater than 7, and preferably between 8 and 40 12, particularly between 8 and 10.5, which comprises e) one or more agent (s) 3029408 alkalinizing (s) and optionally d) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s). Preferably the composition comprising a) + b) + c) and optionally b1) is at acidic pH, i.e. less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH between 1 and 3 inclusively.
[0053] Preferentially, the cosmetic composition applied to the keratinous fibers during the second step further comprises d) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), chosen in particular from hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0054] According to one particular embodiment, the dyeing process according to the invention is carried out in several stages by application to the keratinous fibers in a first step of a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more ODP (s), such (s) ) as defined above, in particular chosen from among 15 - haematein, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process does not use chemical oxidizing agent d) ; or else - hematoxylin brasiline, when the dyeing process uses a chemical oxidizing agent d); B) one or more organic titanium salt (s) as defined previously; advantageously, ingredient b) is chosen from the salts or complexes of Ti (IV); b1) optionally one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above; and c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) as defined previously; then in a second step the application on said fibers of a cosmetic composition comprising: d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide as defined above; e) one or more basifying agent (s) chosen from amino acids and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth alone or in mixture; it being understood that: - preferably the composition comprising a) + b) + c) and optionally b1) is at acidic pH, i.e. less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH inclusive of between 1 and 3; and the composition comprising the basifying agent (s) is at alkaline pH, preferably between 8 and 12 and more particularly between 8 and 10. The pause time after application of the composition comprising the colorant (s) in particular ODP (s) such (s) as defined above is generally fixed between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in two stages by the application to the keratinous fibers of a dye composition comprising the ingredients a), b), b1) and c ), as defined above, then, in a second step, a composition comprising the ingredient e) and optionally the ingredient d) as defined above is applied to said keratin fibers, it being understood that at least one of the two compositions is aqueous. Preferably, the composition comprising the dye (s) in particular ODP (s) a) is aqueous. Even more preferentially, the two compositions used in this embodiment are aqueous. For this staining process, the pause time after application for the first step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. The application time of the composition comprising ingredient e) during the second step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 3 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 5 and 30 minutes. According to another embodiment, the method for dyeing keratin fibers is in two or three steps.
[0055] According to this embodiment, the process for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in several stages by application to the keratinous fibers in a first step of a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more dyes, in particular one or more ODPs ( s), in particular chosen from: 25 - haematein, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process does not use chemical oxidizing agent d); or else - hematoxylin brasiline, when the dyeing process uses a chemical oxidizing agent d); B) one or more titanium salt (s) as defined above and b1) optionally one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (1) as defined (s) ) previously with A representing a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and n representing an integer between 0 and 5 inclusive, such as between 0 and 35; more particularly, the carboxylic acid or acids of the invention are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and tartaric acid; then in a second step the application on said fibers of a cosmetic composition comprising: c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) as defined previously and particularly those consisting of at least one unit (XII) and at least one of the units (IX), (X) or (XI) as defined above and in particular those consisting of at least one unit ( XII) as defined above and at least one of the units (IX), (X) or (XI) as defined previously in the (s) which (s) R6 is a linear dodecyl group and more specifically the salts hydroxyethylcellulose polymeric quaternary ammonium which has reacted with a substituted epoxide of trimethylammonium and substituted dimethylammonium epoxide (or Polyquaternium-67); d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) selected from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s); e) one or more basifying agent (s) chosen (s) from amino acids such as arginine and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth, alone or in mixtures; it being understood that: preferably the composition comprising a) + b) and optionally b1) is at acidic pH, i.e. less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH of between 1 and 3 inclusive; and the composition comprising the basifying agent (s) is at alkaline pH, preferably between 8 and 12, and more particularly between 8 and 10.
[0056] In particular, the dyeing process of the invention is carried out in at least two stages, in the first stage the ingredients a), b) and c) are applied together on the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, then in the second stage the ingredients d) and e) are applied together on said fibers.
[0057] Regardless of the mode of application, the application temperature is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C. and more particularly between 15 and 45 ° C. Thus, it is advantageous, after application of the composition according to the invention, to subject the hair to a heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be conducted by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heaters. Both heating and smoothing of the hair can be used as a heating iron at a temperature of between 60 and 220 ° C and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C.
[0058] Whatever the mode of application, it is possible to perform a mechanical rinsing or wiping and / or a drying of the keratinous fibers between each step, in particular before carrying out the last step comprising the application of a composition containing the ingredient ). The mechanical wiping and intermediate drying steps are also referred to as "non-rinsed mastered" to differentiate from "conventional large water rinsing" and "non-rinsed". By "mechanical wiping" of the fibers is meant the rubbing of an absorbent object on the fibers and the physical removal by the absorbent object of the surplus ingredient (s) that has not penetrated the fibers. The absorbent object may be a piece of cloth such as a particularly sponge towel, a tea towel, absorbent paper such as paper towel. According to a particularly advantageous method of the invention, the mechanical wiping is carried out without total drying of the fiber, leaving the fiber wet. Drying means the action of evaporating organic solvents and / or water in one or more compositions used in the process of the invention, whether or not comprising one or more ingredients a) to e) such than previously defined. The drying can be done by thermal source (convection, conduction or radiation) by sending for example a hot gas stream such as the air necessary for the evaporation of the solvent or solvents. As a heat source there may be mentioned a hair dryer, hair helmets, a hair straightener, an infrared ray dispenser and other conventional heaters. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). In all the particular modes and variants of the processes described above, the compositions mentioned are ready-to-use compositions which may result from the extemporaneous mixing of two or more compositions and in particular of compositions present in dyeing kits. Dyeing device or "kit" Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device or "kit" for dyeing. Advantageously, this kit comprises from 2 to 5 compartments containing 2 to 5 compositions in which are distributed the ingredients a) to e) as defined above can be aqueous or powder, with particularly at least one of said compositions being aqueous.
[0059] According to a first variant, the kit comprises 5 compartments, the first 4 compartments respectively comprising the powdered ingredients a), b), c) and e) as defined above and in the 5th compartment containing an aqueous oxidizing composition such as the water comprising d) as defined above. In this other embodiment, at least one of the four compositions is aqueous and the dye (s), particularly the ODP (s) may be in powder form. In another variant of the kit, the latter comprises two compartments, in which the first composition contained in the first compartment comprises a), b) and c) the second compartment comprises d) in the form of a powder or in an aqueous medium, preferably the second composition is aqueous.
[0060] In another variant of the kit, the latter comprises three compartments, in which the first composition contained in the first compartment comprises a) and b) and the second compartment comprises d) in the form of a powder or in an aqueous medium, preferably the second compartment. composition is aqueous and the third compartment comprises c).
[0061] According to one variant, the device according to the invention further comprises an additional composition comprising one or more treatment agents. The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by appropriate, identical or different application means, such as brushes, brushes or sponges. The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913. The invention also relates to the use of said composition cosmetic dye for staining keratin fibers. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratinous fibers containing compounds a), b), b1), c), d) and e) as defined above. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "rise" of the color of the keratinous fibers is understood to mean the variation in color between strands of unstained white hair and strands of colored hair. The following example serves to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.
[0062] Examples of Staining Example 1: The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in grams per 100 grams of composition: Coloring composition Ingredients composition Composition 1 2 76% hemp endolipid extract Hematoxylin 4 g 4 g 15 g 15 g Ethanol benzyl alcohol 5 g 5 g glycolic acid 15 g 15 g dihydroxybis (ammonium lactate) titanium (IV) at 50% by weight: b) 10.3 g 10.3 g SCLEROTIUM GUM marketed by Alban Muller under the trade name AMIGEL GRANULAR 0.3 g CATIONIC LAURYL MODIFIED CELLULOSE ETHER (Polyquaternium-67) marketed under the name SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 by DOW CHEMICAL: c) 1 g 0.7 g Water qs 100 g qs 100 g Agent of H Qsp pH = 2 ± 0.3 10 Composition developer Composition B amount Oxygenated water (50%): d) 1.7 g sodium bicarbonate: e) 5 g L-arginine: e) 7 g Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate marketed under the name STRUCTURE ZE A by AKZO NOBEL 5g Water qs 100 g pH agent (sodium hydroxide) pH 10.2 ± 0.3 Coloring compositions 1 and 2 and composition B are applied with a brush to hair: - Caucasian with 90% natural white hair, 3029408 44 100% natural white hair is then observed a laying time of 45 minutes at 40 ° C for compositions 1 and 2 and 15 minutes at 40 ° C for composition B. Rinsing is performed before application of composition B.
[0063] At the end of these exposure times, the locks are washed with Elsève multi-vitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried with a helmet. Staining Results It is found that black locks are very intensely colored, which is corroborated with the colorimetric measurements below. In addition, it appears that the coloration is visually homogeneous and tenacious with respect to successive shampoos. The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In this system L * a * b *, the three parameters designate respectively the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. Rise in color: The color variation between the natural or permanent white 90% white caustic hair strands or 100% white Chinese hair before and after treatment or staining is defined by (3, E *) according to the equation: AE * = - (L * + (a * -a. *) 2 + (b * -1) ,, *) 2 In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of hair after staining and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on strands of unstained virgin hair. The higher the value of AE *, the better the rise of the color. The L, a, b color rise results are listed in the table below: Hair types and color treatment L * a * b * DE * rise Composition 1 then B Natural Caucasian 90% white Black 28.3 2 , 02 1.75 44.71 Chinese Natural 100% White Black 32.22 1.68 4.55 52.72 Composition 2 then B Natural Caucasian 90% White Black 26.68 3.24 4.25 45.26 Natural Chinese 100% white Black 26.35 1.64 1.97 59.12 After the keratinous fibers have been treated with compositions 1 and 2, the 30 locks obtained are of a very powerful black, and intense.

权利要求:
Claims (20)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated, in one or more steps, with one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the the following ingredients: a) one or more dyes, in particular chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin, preferably chosen from ortho-diphenols (ODPs); b) one or more titanium salt (s); optionally b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) below; (I) formula (I) as well as its salts, in which: A represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon comprising 1 to 50 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or nonaromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted, in particular not one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably A represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; - n represents an integer inclusive between 0 and 10, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such as 0, 1 or 2; c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s).
[0002]
2. The method of dyeing according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one of the compositions used in the dyeing process is at acidic pH, ie less than 7.0, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH value. inclusive between 0 and 4.
[0003]
3. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that ingredient a) is an aromatic ring ODP, this aromatic ring being chosen from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, and the like. indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydro-benzofuran, chromane, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring having at least two hydroxy groups carried by two contiguous adjacent atoms of the aromatic ring.
[0004]
4. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that ingredient a) is a ODP of formula (II) below or one of its oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometric isomers, and its salts or its solvates such as hydrates: OH (II) in which: R1 to R4, identical or different, represent: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) halogen, or a group selected from iii ) hydroxy, iv) carboxy, v) carboxylate of (C1-C20) alkyl or (C1-C20) alkoxycarbonyl, vi) optionally substituted amino, vii) C20) linear or branched alkyl optionally substituted, viii) (C2-C20) optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl, x) (C1-C20) alkoxy, x1) (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl, xii) (C1-C20) alkoxyaryl, xiii) aryl optionally substituted, xiv) aryl, xv) substituted aryl, xvi) heterocyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrier or n of a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, preferably benzene, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted especially by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, xvii) a radical containing one or more atoms silicon; or two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 together with the carbon atoms carrying them a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or otherwise, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms; particularly, R1 to R4 together form from one to four rings; more particularly, R2 and R3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring carrying the two hydroxy; especially the ODP (s) a) is (are) chosen from: flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate, flavonols such as quercetin, anthocyanidins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, petunidine, anthocyanins or anthocyanins such as myrtillin, orthohydroxybenzoates, for example salts of gallic acid, flavones such as luteolin, hydroxystilbenes, for example 3,3'-tetrahydroxy, 4,5'-stilbene; , optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, dihydroxycinnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, orthopolyhydroxycoumarines, orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines, orthopolyhydroxycoumarones, orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones, orthopolyhydroxychalcones, orthopolyhydroxychromones, quinones, hydro xyxanthones, 1,2-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives, proanthocyanidins and in particular proanthocyanidins A1, A2, B1, B2, B3 and C1, chromans, and chromenics, proathocyanines, tannic acid, ellagic acid, and mixtures of the foregoing compounds; preferably the ortho-diphenol (s) are chosen from haematein, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, hematoxylin and brasiline, and mixtures thereof.
[0005]
5. Staining process according to any one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the ODP (s) natural (s) a) is (are) chosen (s) from animal extracts, bacteria , mushrooms, seaweed, plants and fruits.
[0006]
6. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acid (s) b1) is (are) of formula (I) with A representing a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl group or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and n representing an integer between 0 and 5 inclusive, such as 0, 1 or 2, particularly the carboxylic acid (s) of the invention are chosen among the α-hydroxy acids; preferentially, the acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid.
[0007]
7. Coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acid (s) b1) of formula (I) or their salts, is (are) present in the composition or compositions containing them. in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
[0008]
8. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt (s) of titanium is (are) chosen from organic or inorganic titanium salts, preferably from salts organic titanium, and in which (s) titanium is in particular of oxidation state 2, 3 or 4 preferably of oxidation degree 4.
[0009]
9. Staining process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the organic salt (s) of titanium (b) is (are) derived from the reaction of organic acid (s) (s) ) on titanium, wherein the organic acid (s) is (are) chosen from organic acids which comprise: a) at least one C1-C20 hydrocarbon chain, optionally unsaturated, linear or branched, a (hetero) cycloalkyl, or (hetero) aryl group, and b) at least one acidic chemical function being in particular selected from carboxy COOH, sulfuric SO3H, SO2H, and phosphoric PO3H2, PO41-12; preferably the organic acid (s) is (are) chosen from carboxylic acids (s) of formula (I) as defined in claim 1 or 7, more preferably from citric acid, lactic acid; , tartaric, and glycolic and more particularly lactic and glycolic acids.
[0010]
10. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acid (s) b1) is (are) of formula (I) as defined in claim 1 or 6 and the last one (s) is (are) different from the organic acid (s) of the titanium salt as defined in claim 8 or 9.
[0011]
11. Coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic salt (s) of titanium (b) is (are) chosen from those of formula (IA) below: Formula ( IA) in which: - A is as defined in claim 1 or 6; n, n 'and n ", identical or different, are 1, 2, 3, or 4 with n' + n" = 6; M1 and M2, which are identical or different, represent a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal cation such as Na, or K, alkaline earth such as Ca or organic such as ammonium, preferably ammonium or a hydrogen atom; - TiY ', represents Ti (OH), - ,,,, or Ti (0), -, 72, or Ti (OH) mi (0) m2with ml + m2 = n ", preferably, the salt or The titanium organic (s) of the dyeing process is the dihydroxybis (lactate) titaniumlV salt such as those of the following formula: Y Ti n "49 0 n '(PA) 2NH4 +
[0012]
12. Coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said process uses c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulose polysaccharide (s) which comprises (s) inclusively from 4,000 to 10,000 anhydroglucose units, said anhydroglucose units being substituted with at least (i) a substituent of formula [R1R2R3N + -R6 -] (Q "), in which: - R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl, such as methyl or ethyl; R8 is a divalent group allowing attachment to the anhydroglucose moiety selected from - (A) p-ALK-, -ALK- (A) p- and -ALK- and in particular R8 is chosen from - (A) p -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-, -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2- (A) p- and -CH2CH2-ALK represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; - p is 0 or 1; - A represents a divalent group selected from - (A LK'-O) n- and - (O-ALK '), -, -, preferably selected from - (CH2CH2O)' - and - (OCH2C1-12) n-; - ALK 'represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably ethylene or propylene; An integer ranging from 1 to 100, especially from 2 to 50; CI 'represents an anionic counterion; and at least (ii) an ammonium group of formula [R4R5R6N + -R9 -] (Q "), wherein: - R4 and R5, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl, - R6 represents a linear or branched C8-C24 alkyl group, in particular C10-C24, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C12-C15, or aralkyl, the linear or branched alkyl part thereof, is C8-C24; R9 is a divalent group allowing attachment to the anhydroglucose group selected from - (B) q-ALK-, -ALK- (B) q- and -ALK- and in particular R8 is selected from - (B) q-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -, CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 - (B) q- and -CH 2 Cl-12-, with ALK te as previously defined - q is 0 or 1; B denotes a divalent group - (CH 2 CH 2 O) n - an integer ranging from 1 to 100, especially from 2 to 50; - CI "represents an anionic counterion; preferably, the substituent (ii) of formula [R4R5R6N + -R9-1 (Q ") is present in an average of 0.0003 to 0.08 moles per mole of anhydroglucose unit.
[0013]
13. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said method uses c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulose polysaccharide (s) which is (are) constituted (s) at least one unit (XII) and at least one of the following units (IX), (X) or (XI): H (CH 2 CH 2 O), TH 0- (CH 2 CH 2 0 0 0H HO (IX) 3029408 Wherein R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4 and R 5, which may be identical or different, represent a group (R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4 and R 5, which may be identical or different, C1-C6) alkyl, linear or branched, such as methyl or ethyl; R6 represents a linear or branched C8-C24, in particular C10-C24, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C12, alkyl group; -C15 or aralkyl, the linear or branched alkyl part of which is C8-C24, preferably R6 is a linear dodecyl group, Q- and An-, which are identical or different, represent an anionic counterion, preferably selected from halides such as chloride or bromide, nitrates, sulfates and alkylsulfates such as mesylates, and phosphates; it being understood that: the total number of units (IX) + (X) + (XI) + (XII) is included between 4000 and 10000 inclusive, preferably between 4500 and 9000 units, advantageously between 5000 and 8000 inclusively; and more preferably between 6000 and 8000; ## STR2 ## ) + (X) + (XI) + (XII)] ranges from 0.0003 to 0.8, - the ratio [(X) + (XII)] / [(IX) + (X) + (XI) + (XII)] ranges from 0.02 to 0.9, and the integers n and n ', independently of one another, range from 0 to 5, preferentially the cellulose polysaccharide (s) (s). ) hydrophobic (s) cationic (s) 5 is (are) selected from quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcellulose C8-C30 fatty chain such as quaternized laurylhydroxyethylcelluloses.
[0014]
14. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said process uses d) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen (s) from peroxide of hydrogen or one or more system (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide in particular selected from hydrogen peroxide or urea peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0015]
15. A dyeing method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dyeing process uses e) one or more alkalinizing agent (s) particularly chosen from: i) the (i) bi) carbonates, ii) ammonia, iii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iv) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, v) mineral or organic hydroxides, vi) silicates alkali metals such as sodium metasilicates; vii) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine; and viii) compounds of the following formula (XIII): Embedded image Formula (XIII) in which W is a divalent (C1-C8) alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group or at least one (C1-C4) alkyl radical and / or possibly interrupted by at least one heterotato me such as oxygen, sulfur or by a group -N (Re) -; Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl or hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably W represents a propylene radical, preferably the agent or agents The alkalizing agents are chosen from (bi) carbonates and amino acids, alone or in mixtures.
[0016]
16. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition or compositions used comprise one or more organic solvent (s), in particular chosen from lower C1-C4 alkanols. such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, preferably aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol. 5
[0017]
17. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said method is carried out in at least two steps which comprises a first step in which the keratinous fibers are treated with a cosmetic composition comprising a) one or more dyes (s) in particular ODP (s) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, b) one or more titanium salt (s) chosen especially from organic titanium salts as defined in any of claims 1, 8, 9 and 11 and b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined in any of claims 1, 6, or 10; and c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) as defined in claim 1, 12 or 13; followed by a second step in which is applied an alkaline cosmetic composition ie whose pH is greater than 7, and preferably between 8 and 12 inclusive, particularly between 8 and 10.5, which comprises e) one or more alkalinizing agent (s) as defined in claim 15, preferably the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers in the second step further comprises d) one or more oxidizing agent (s) (s) chemical (s) as defined in claim 14, in particular selected (s) from hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) hydrogen peroxide generator (s) preferably hydrogen peroxide. 25
[0018]
18. A method of dyeing according to the preceding claim made in several steps by application to the keratin fibers in a first step of a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more ODP (s), as defined in (s) in any of claims 1 to 5, especially chosen from: haematin, brazileine, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process does not use a chemical oxidizing agent; ); or else - hematoxylin brasiline, when the dyeing process uses a chemical oxidizing agent d); B) one or more organic titanium salt (s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 8, 9 or 11; advantageously, ingredient b) is chosen from the salts or complexes of Ti (IV); b1) possibly one or. several carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1, 6, or 10; and c) one or more cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide (s) as defined in any of claims 1, 12 or 13; then in a second step the application on said fibers of a cosmetic composition comprising: d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or a plurality of hydrogen peroxide generator systems as defined in claim 14; e) one or more basifying agent (s) chosen from amino acids and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth alone or in mixture; It being understood that: preferably the composition comprising a) + b) + c) and optionally b1) is at acidic pH, i.e. less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH ranging between 1 and 3; and the composition comprising the basifying agent (s) is at alkaline pH, preferably between 8 and 12 and more particularly between 8 and 10.
[0019]
19. Cosmetic composition for the dyeing of keratinous fibers containing compounds a), b), b1), c), d) and e) as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 18.
[0020]
20. Multi-compartment device comprising 2 to 5 compartments containing 2 to 5 compositions, in which are distributed ingredients a), b), b1), c), d) and e), as defined according to one of the following: any of claims 1 to 18, said compositions being aqueous or powdery, with at least one of these compositions being aqueous.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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FR3029408B1|2016-12-09|

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WO2016091816A1|2016-06-16|

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FR3082735A1|2018-06-20|2019-12-27|L'oreal|HAIR COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE, A SCLEROGLUCAN GUM AND AN ASSOCIATIVE POLYMER.|

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FR3082738B1|2018-06-20|2020-07-10|L'oreal|HAIR COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE, A SCLEROGLUCAN GUM AND A CATIONIC POLYMER.|

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FR3082742B1|2018-06-20|2020-05-29|L'oreal|HAIR COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE, A SCLEROGLUCAN GUM, AND AN ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE.|

法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2016-06-10| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160610 |

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2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |

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2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1462063A|FR3029408B1|2014-12-08|2014-12-08|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, A TITANIUM SALT, AND A CATIONIC HYDROPHOBIC CELLULOSIC POLAR|FR1462063A| FR3029408B1|2014-12-08|2014-12-08|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, A TITANIUM SALT, AND A CATIONIC HYDROPHOBIC CELLULOSIC POLAR|

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PCT/EP2015/078846| WO2016091816A1|2014-12-08|2015-12-07|Hair dyeing process using at least one dye, a titanium salt and a cationic hydrophobic cellulosic polysaccharide|